Caretta Caretta:
One of the highlights of a visit to Zakynthos is sighting the beautiful
loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta). The turtle is an endangered
species and can be found both on Zakynthos and Kefallonia.
They lay their eggs on beaches and sandy coves late at night, but can
be frightened by human intervention such as bright lights and noise. The
mothers lay dozens of eggs under the warm sand at night to incubate. Over
recent years, numbers have dwindled to less than eight hundred and in the
bay of Laganas (one of the key nesting grounds) access to the beach is
prohibited after sunset to allow the turtles to lay their eggs
undisturbed.
Six separate beaches, approximately four kilometres in length, in the
bay of Laganas host 800 to 1800 nests. The mothers come ashore between
June and August at night and drag their 100kg bodies up to the dry part of
the sand where they leave over one hundred eggs in a chamber 40 to 60 cm
deep. The surviving hatchlings emerge about two months later and return to
the sea. Twenty to thirty years later, the female adults will return to
their natal beach to reproduce.
In order to protect this endangered creature, boating activity and
watersports are severely restricted in the Bay of Laganas. However, it is
worth taking a boat trip to Marathonisi Island in the bay. Known as
'turtle island' after its shape, one side of the island is another
breeding ground for the Caretta caretta. Many boat trips around the island
will stop in the waters outside the Bay of Laganas to catch a glimpse of
the turtles. If you really want to get close to one, I recommend you swim
out from Gerakas beach for a couple of hundred metres and keep your eyes
peeled. You need to be a confident swimmer and the best time of the day is
late morning when the water may not be too warm. However, the effort is
worth it!
Sarakina Mansion:
The site of Sarakina (10 kms northeast of Laganas) known from the
Middle Ages, took its name from the Saracen pirates, who used the area as
a hideout. The old Mansion Sarakina, which belongs to the Loutzis' family,
dominates the region and adjacent to the old mansion is the 'Agios Ioannis
Prodromos Chapel' where the family vault is located.
The mansion was severely damaged in the earthquake of 1953 but remains
one of the finest examples of Venetian architecture in this part of the
island.
Porto Roma:
Porto Roma is an idyllic part of Zakynthos. Located at the southeastern
tip of the island, this small fishing port is unspoilt and is perfect for
getting away from it all. There is the best of both worlds here; an
unspoilt bay within a peaceful locale and yet it is very close to the
livelier areas of Laganas and Argasi.
Porto Roma has five tavernas (of which the Delfinia is one of the
finest on the island) and a couple of small shops. There are no hotels
here. Accommodation is restricted to villas and very high quality
apartments. If you want a beach to yourself, Porto Roma in the morning is
for you! A short walk through the olive groves takes you to Gerakas beach
and Zakynthos Town is a twenty minute drive away. Porto Roma is a useful
starting point for one of the many island cruises and you can also take a
glass-bottomed boat to Gerakas in the hope of sighting Caretta Caretta.
Island Cruises:
A decent island cruise will take up a full day of your visit to
Zakynthos. For the first time visitor it is really worthwhile to get an
overall impression of the island's beauty. If you take a tour early on in
your visit, it will tempt you to venture further afield from your resort.
Most of the main cruises depart from Zakynthos Town and can take about
seven hours. It is best to take an early cruise because you'll have
undisturbed access to the quieter parts of the island. Because the
cruisers generally end up at the secluded sea-access beaches at the north
of the island, you don't want to arrive there when there are a couple of
hundred other visitors! Many of the cruises have stop-offs where you can
jump off and have a swim, for example to the shipwreck or at Marathonisi
island. If you're not a strong swimmer, some of the better cruises have
small motor boats to take you ashore.
It's worth finding out whether the cruise hugs the shoreline. Many
don't (in order to save fuel) but if the weather conditions are fine then
getting close to the shoreline is a fantastic opportunity to enjoy
Zakynthos's natural beauty.
One of the best aspects of an island cruise is that you will have the
opportunity to spend some time at the island's secluded beaches which can
only be accessed by sea. If you arrive early enough, you'll have time to
have a peaceful few minutes on the beach before the other ships arrive. It
can be a bit of a race but if you're early off the mark, you should arrive
at most of them with a bit of time to spare. Be careful though, with so
much exposure to the sun out at sea, burn times can increase by 400% so
use high factor cream and keep hydrated!
The Shipwreck:
Here's the story... Twenty years ago, a freighter was pursued by the
Greek Navy. The crew were suspected of smuggling contraband and the navy
chased the ship through the Ionian sea. Allegedly there was 'wine, tabacco
and women' on board and the chase came to an abrupt end when the ship ran
aground in stormy weather on the coast to the north of the island at Porto
Vromi.
Many of the aerial shots of the shipwreck give the impression that it
is the remains of a beautiful galleon but in reality it is a modern
freighter. On my first visit to the island I headed for the 'Navagio' by
boat one morning. The shoreline is stunning with clear emerald sea and
steep cliffs. Our group moored close to the wreck and we swam ashore. This
is when my suspicions began...
* The wreck is equidistant between the cliffs (perfectly centred on the
beach)
* There is no major damage to the bow or the stern (was it a sideways
impact?)
* The centre of the wreck shows evidence of scuttling (an explosion
deliberately placed in the centre of the ship)
* The chances of grounding on a beach in this part of the island are
less than a thousand to one
* One local told me it was a Mafia ship, another that it was a Scottish
ship!
Notwithstanding this, it's still a spectacular sight, whether you take
a boat trip and swim ashore, or take the serpentine road to a new viewing
platform above the cliffs.
A word of warning though, if you decide to explore the wreck's
interior, be careful not to enter the old engine room as this may contain
dangerous asbestos.