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West Coast of the Pelopenese from Cape Akritas to Cape Pappas

Chart S.H.O.M. 3210, 7195

B.A.  207
It is around 100 miles from Cape Akritas to the entrance of the Gulf of Patrasso.  The coast, along this route is safe almost everywhere, but the interesting ports of call here are not as equally spaced as in the regions previously described.  There one is able to linger at length within the entrance of the Gulf of Messina and Pylos (Navarino), only 15 miles apart. You will find very several pleasant  anchorages,  but further along, the coast does not offer any attractive anchorages, and the closest port, Katakolon, at 50 miles, is not worth the trouble of a visit other than for possible shelter (unique on this itinerary). Over from  Cape Tripiti, the western point of the Pelopenese, the coast is rugged to the north as far as Cape Glarenza, then to the North East towards Cape Pappas (Araxos) that defines the entrance to the Gulf of Patrasso.  A light current from the North West goes back towards the Adriatic along the West Coast of Greece.  If navigating by night, care should be taken, because there are few ighthouses in these parts.

Methoni (Medone)

Position, Aspect
A massive tower on different levels with nearby fortifications lapped by the waves of the sea; this is how the Venetian Citadel of Methoni presents itself, constructed on a low rocky point (Soukouli) 10 miles to the northwest of Cape Akritas .
To the east of the point, right at the foot of the walls of the fortress, a marina is protected to the south by a breakwater without a quay, with a lighthouse at the extremity (1.r.3s). To the side of the lighthouse, there is a little concrete wharf , where is found an abandoned refuelling station.  This wharf,  allowing you only to put your feet on the breakwater,  is made of large blocks of stone piled up that cause you to engage in some acrobatics before reaching the land.
Some hundreds of metres to the north of the bay, one finds a modern town devoid of charm.  On the beach around the bay, there are several taverns and small hotels.

Access and Anchorage
350 m south of the tower one finds a shallow region covered with 4.5m of water that is no trouble with a calm sea.  Other than this shallow section the strait between Methoni and Sapienza Island, 1 mile to the south is safe.
Arriving from the SE, one must pass broadly to the west of the small island Kouloura that juts out from the coast 0.7miles to the SE from the entrance of the port.  In the port, the depth, 7m at the entrance, decreases rapidly towards the west and North. You enter sounding and anchor  according to your  draught more or less near to the land on a bottom of  muddy sand that offers good holding.
It requires  close attention, especially at night to avoid the fishermen's anchor ropes with their floating tops,  that clutter up the harbour .  It is possible to tie up  on the wharf of the breakwater, better if by the prow, paying attention to the shallows nearby; also in this case, use the tender for landing.

Resources
You will find some shops in the town well supplied to restock your provisions. On the beach there is a choice of several different taverns.  A water supply point in the corner of the port allows for the refilling of some tanks.
It is almost compulsory to visit the citadel that has been recently restored in part, and so also  the tower.

Sapienza Island (Sapientsa, Sakiotsa)
Sapienza, 1 mile south of Methoni, is a wild and uninhabited island, with rocky and secure coasts.
A powerful lighthouse on its southern point (31.b.15s,26M), an octagonal tower on a house and that on which one lands, arriving in Greece from the West.
To the east of the island is found an anchorage sheltered from all weather:  Baia Longos (  Port Longos).  The bay is open to the east but is relatively protected in that direction by a small rocky island surrounded by shoals, especially to the southwest, which partially close the entrance.

The normal access is to the south of the island.  The best anchorage is in the southern inlet, around 100m from the beach in 3 - 5m of water, a muddy bottom with good holding. You are able to anchor also to the north of the bay, at the beginning of the pass on a bottom of light sand.  The anchorage of Longos is always quiet (few boats stop there) and is favourable for underwater fishing. For some years in summer it is frequented by small boats that come from Methoni to spend the day here.

Pylos (Navarino,  Niokastron)

Position, Aspect
Pylos (Navarino) is an immense, well-sheltered bay, that was the theatre of one of the most important chapters of the Greek history: the naval battle of 1827 that was brought to an end by the Treaty of Adrianopoli (1829), the basis of which was the autonomy of Greece imposed on the Turks by the Anglo-Franco- Russian alliance.  On the 20th October 1827, the Turkish -Egyptian fleet (82 ships) were stationed in harbour. An allied fleet of 27 ships, under the command of Admiral Codrington, entered " to  negotiate". A shot was fired ( according to the British version from a Turkish vessel) and the bay was transformed immediately into a gigantic firefight.  The western alliance took possession of the place, after having sunk 53 Turkish vessels, the remains of which are lying on the bottom at 15 - 40m deep.
The bay is closed to the west by the island of Sphaktiria, high and craggy, separated from the coast to the north by a narrow and impracticable passage.  Two rocks and the island Pylos are separated from Sphaktiria to the south.  Pylos, hollowed out in a big rocky arc, has a lighthouse (21.b.10s) on its southern extremity.
The north coast of the bay, low and sandy, has some lagoons in the vicinity.
In the southeast corner, one finds the charming village and the marina of Pylos, overlooked to the southeast by a Turkish fortress, right at the entrance to the bay.  At the centre of this, there is the island of Khelonosi with a lighthouse.  (1.b.r.3s)

From north or from the south, the arrival at Pylos is always very interesting: the high cliffs of Sphaktiria, the French castle constructed on a spur around 150m high to the northwest of the bay, the Turkish citadel at the entrance, make for an exceptionally impressive scene, where you are able to stay several days.

Access and Anchorage
The access to the bay is perhaps safer by day than by night.  The normal entrance is between the Pylos Island and the Turkish fort with the lighthouse.
The port is a small basin protected from the west by a breakwater, the extremity of which has a lighthouse (f.v.)  The basin with 8m of water, inside of the breakwater is very often cluttered with service launches that shuttle the cargo of ships anchored in the harbour, and replenish their supplies. There is rather little water in front of the east basin, that seems nevertheless to have been constructed for cargo, and the southern part of the basin is encumbered with  deep water boats.

The anchorage in the harbour is more tranquil. You will choose one of the following points: 

  1. if thinking of going into town, anchor just to the north of the port in 8-12m of water , bottom of seaweed and mud.

  2. To the east of the bay, you are able to have a depth almost everywhere of 4-8m of water, bottom of seaweed, and so also in the north east corner to the south of the village of Gialova.

  3. In the north west corner of the bay, near passo Sikia, there is a good anchorage on a bottom of sand, in 3 - 10m of water.  Watch out! The bottom  shelves abruptly from 3  to 1 metre nearing the coast.

From this last point, you will be able to go up to as far as the French castle (Paleokastro) and to the grotto of Nestore (see also further, Voidhokilia Bay)

Authority
Pylos is a port of entry where you are able to have issued the transit log. The Port Captain is found at the start of the breakwater.

Resources
On the quay of the breakwater there is a public tap at the start and a water point at the extremity, beside  the diesel oil station.  The person in charge of the diesel and water has a shop in the town above the piazza, in the south east corner (service station).
The shops are well stocked and you will be able to completely restock  your supplies.
Pylos is connected to Patrasso and Kalamata by bus.
There is a Post Office and Telephone ( take the road to the right above the piazza).

Tourism
Making a port of call at Pylos,  go and see the little museum, where you will find all the explanations about the battle of 1827, before going up to the walls of the citadel to contemplate the theatre of operations and to try to imagine in situ the development of the battle.

Bay of Voidhokilia (Voidhokilia)
Just to the north of the bay of Pylos, the curve of Voidhokilia seems to be traced with a compass from the two rocky promontories that define the entrance of it.  It is surrounded by a magnificent beach of light, fine sand, and the crystalline beach invite one to go swimming.  Immediately to the south, the Paleokastro  (old castle), whose exterior walls are perfectly preserved, overlooks it  around 150m above.  This anchorage is able to be utilised only with good weather; in such case it is a ideal point for stop for some hours.  The entrance is safe, passing to the north of a rock that stretches out from the southern point. 
You must anchor just inside it, to the south east of the rock in 4m of water, since the bottom rises abruptly further on.  A path in the southern corner of the bay goes up to the castle to which you are able to go for a walk, following the path around.  From here the glance is directed to the magnificent bay of Navarino and to the surrounding land. You can distinguish the village of Pylos, also dominated by its fortress.

On the same path, halfway up, you will also visit the grotto of Nestore,  a great chamber extended at the top by a chimney that emerges 30m higher than the sides of the mountain.  The grotto is easily seen from the anchorage.

Protis (Proti)
8 miles to the north of the last anchorage, Protis is a wild islet, with rocky and steep coasts. It is separated from the mainland by a safe channel on whose coast there is a beacon ( Marathos Point 1.b.1.5s).  You are able anchor  provisionally in an inlet of the east coast, very near the shore, to go and explore the island near the ruins of the castle  a little more to the south.  On the opposite coast, in Marathopolis Bay, an angled breakwater to the north of Marathos Point, a marina accommodates boats of low draught (1.5m)

Skala, Kiparissia
This port situated 29 miles to the south-east of Katakolon, is not very interesting. It is created by a long breakwater, 300m, orientated first  north and then north-east.  The breakwater, to which one is not able to approach, shelters a wide stretch of  water from the west,  but offers little protection from  winds from the north-west  that predominate in summer  causing high surf .  Access is possible only  by day.  One must go round by the far end of the jetty until 100m to the north of the dangerous shallows surrounding it  Anchor downwind of the jetty, in 8 - 4 m of water, on a bottom with good holding.
There is a tavern on the port, a service station, post and telephone.  Bus service to Kalamata and Patrasso.
More than 700m, with a lighthouse on the point (sc.r.)  Inside, a big jetty, recently constructed, permits the approach of cargo vessels that come here to load phosphate and grapes from Corinth.
The village that surrounds the wharf, made of square, aligned houses, and warehouses, has the air of being on top of the world.
In summer, it comes to life every evening, becoming the strolling spot for the inhabitants of Pyrgos.

Access and Anchorage
Cape Katakolon is bordered, until 400m to the west, by dangerous shallows.  Arriving from the west, one must wait until the lighthouse on the breakwater abast the beam by 10deg before turning towards the port.
Inside,  you will tie up on the wharf to the north of the jetty, where one finds an out of order provisioning station.

Authority
Katakolon is a port of entry where you are able to have the transit log issued. (released?) The Harbour Master (Port Captain) is found in the large modern building opposite the jetty.

Resources
There is a water point (for the police, but one is able to "come to an agreement") in the northern corner of the wharf.
It is difficult to get fuel on the wharf.  In town you will find limited choice of provisions, but instead there are numerous taverns along the beach, surrounded by trees and little summer houses.

Tourism
From Katakolon you are able to go to Olympia, one of the most grand and beautiful of the archaeological sites of Greece, 35 km away.  There is a bus service to Olympia, but one must change at Pyrgos.  The excursion will take all day, and you can also hire a taxi.

Gulf of Messinia  (Messiniakos, Kalamata)
Chart S.H.O.M. 7195
B.A. 682, 207

The gulf of Messinia, that opens in the south coast of Peloponese from Cape Tenaron (Matapan) and Cape Akritas (Gallo), 35 km to the Northwest, is much less welcoming than that of Laconia.  Almost all the bays of the West coast of  Mani, open to the west, are often impracticable and the big modern port of Kalamata to the North does not have much of interest.  Instead, on the west coast of the Gulf, you will find Koroni, one of the most beautiful towns of  southern Greece.
Therefore,if you do not have a particular reason for stopping at Kalamata, avoid this 35 mile deviation and go directly to Koroni.
Cape Tenaron, that separates perfectly the eastern Mediterranean from that of the west, terminates with a rather low peninsula, with, on its extremity, a powerful light on a square tower with a house.
Going back along the coast of Mani, exceptionally desolate,  you will notice the fortified villages, characteristic of the region.  The coast until Kalamata is safe, except in the vicinity of  Stupari Point, 29miles to the north-north-west of Cape Tenaron, from which a dangerous rocky reef juts out 600m.  It is overlooked everywhere by high mountains that culminate with Mount Taygetos, 2400m.

Going towards the north, the landscape becomes  covered progressively with vegetation until it is somewhat green in the vicinity of Kalamata.  The north coast of the Gulf that coincide with the rich plains of Messene, is low and sandy. 

The west coast is bordered by a rocky reef until Koroni, and some isolated rocks stretch out a small distance beyond the reef.  Cape Akritas (Gallo) is without danger; the island Venetiko, 1 mile to the SSE has a lighthouse on the northern extremity surrounded by a rocky reef.

Gerolimenas  (Yerolimini)
Position, Aspect
Gerolimenas is a little fishing village, situated at the edge of a unique …caletta… best protected of all the west coast of Mani.

The Bay is found 6 miles from Cape Tenaron, in an arid and stony sector.  The west coast of the bay is without danger.  That of the east is bordered by some rocks. In front of the village, a small wharf has been constructed . A second, private one is found on the west coast.
At the western entrance, a lighthouse (1.b.1.5s) on a small rocky point, allows approach with ease.  The depth decreases regularly until a beach of pebbles at the extremity of the …ansa

Access and Anchorage 
The entrance to the bay is easy, becoming somewhat constricted towards the west coast.  Anchor in front  of the village, mooring to the little eastern jetty, or to the rocks.  The jetty has little water at the shore end, but the depth increases rapidly to 1.7m.  If you can, tie up your boat preferably by the prow.

Resources
At Gerolimenas, there is nothing great, but you are able however to find a few provisions and to dine in the little tavern on the jetty (fish almost  a certainty among the plates of the day).  Telephone and a bus connecting with Kalamata.

Mezapo Bay and Limeni
Mezapo Bay, situated 10 miles NNW from Cape Tenaron, is moderately sheltered from the southern winds by Cape Tigani.

The fishing village that is found  inside of the bay has a small port accessible only to the local caiques.  It is possible to anchor in front of the village, but it is not prudent to remain for the night because the bay is open to the thermal night breezes that often rise there from the northern sector.

Around 10miles more to the north, Limeni Bay is open to the WSW between rocky coasts,  The southern entrance point has a lighthouse (1.b.1,5s). The depth of the entrance is ample and decreases regularly towards the east until  an underwater obstacle …spiegata…

The town of Limeni  is found in an inlet on the south coast and it has a small jetty accessible only to small boats.

Another village is found in the vicinity of the eastern beach.
You are able anchor, either in front of Limeni or near the beach, in  4-10m of water with a bottom of  pebbles and sand, but you must  stay  ready to set sail rapidly if a wind from the west rises.


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